What’s in Store: Anastasia’s

July 29th, 2008, 11:52 am · Post a Comment · posted by Sam Mittelsteadt

Anastasia’s
The Shops at Gainey Village
8787 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 218, Scottsdale
Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Information: (480) 443-4555 or www.anastasiasboutiques.com

Never let it be said that Lilly Norman does not get things done. When she decided to open a lingerie store, after 15 years of dreaming, she quit her job and five days later was on a plane to Galeries Lafayette, the century-old department store in Paris that has an entire floor dedicated to fine lingerie. There she shopped, she browsed … and she browbeat the English-speaking sales associates until she had the names and contacts for the companies she liked best.

Norman even managed to talk her way past the security guards of a Romanian company to convince the executives she should be able to sell their creations. She then brought back the “surplus” she had purchased and, with a focus group of 22 women, decided which lines made the cut.

“Every brand has to be extraordinary in some way,” Norman says. “It can’t be juvenile, it’s not too revealing. It’s sophisticated, even down to the colors.” This season’s pink, for example, isn’t an infantilizing pastel or a wanton cerise, but a cherry blossom shot through with gold lace so delicate it almost looks like leafing.

And therein lies the difference between American lingerie and its European equivalent. Most U.S.-made lingerie has a salacious, “take me off now!” vibe that leads us to believe such finery is meant to be ripped off not-so-blushing brides. Fine European lingerie is beautiful but not explicitly sexual, with exquisite workmanship made to be admired as much as the body lucky enough to wear it.

One barrier: the sizing. Thanks to the narrower European cuts, a woman who’s used to buying a 34 will find herself in 36 territory. “Psychologically, people are sensitive about it,” Norman says. “I say, ‘It’s not you. It’s the French.’ ” Although the European cuts are narrower, they often usually have a larger range of sizes: Anastasia’s wares come in sizes XS to XL, bras 34A to 38E, and depending on the brand smaller or larger styles can often be ordered.

What’s on the mannequin (at top): Stretch-lace halter top with chiffon trim, $162, and matching panty, $84, by Sally Jones. “She always has great detail,” Norman says. “A brooch, or a jewel, or (at right) a bow.” Handmade crystal and bead choker, $140, by European Imports.

Core customer: Enjoys shopping for “lovely, feminine, sexy items” — sort of like Norman herself, who said she’d go looking for sophisticated styles and find a piece here or there at a department store, but not a large selection. “I can’t even fit into most American styles, and it didn’t fit my taste and style, either,” she says.

High price point (left): Silk chiffon babydoll top with underwire cups and Dutch girl bodice, $378, by Chantal Thomass. “She’s a French designer, very eccentric and edgy,” Norman says. “Some of the women who’ve bought this intend to wear it as a top to a party. It’s lingerie-beyond-lingerie, very ‘Where’s my whip?’ ” (Thomass has decided to no longer sell her line in the United States, so Norman’s collections for fall will be among the last available in the country.) Silk and satin panty, $120, by Chantal Thomass. Choker, $160, by European Imports. Satin gloves, $12. Stockings, $12.

Low price point (right): The Konrad line from Poland — bra $80, panty $50 — uses “great color palette and texture combinations,” Norman says. This Velvet style has flocked lace and chandelier-style trim loops, “almost like filigree.” Crystal fleur de lis pendant, $116, by Leslie Joan. Fabric cuff with crystals and cameos, $44, by Priorities. Stockings, $16.

Best seller (left): Anastasia’s is the only retailer to carry the Prelude collection by Jolidon. “I. Love. Jolidon!” Norman says, clapping her hands with each word. “All designs are made to really fit a female body — curvaceous cups are meant to fit breasts, there’s curves for hips. It’s a Romanian company with headquarters in Paris and uses Italian fabric, Chantilly lace, Swarovski crystals. It’s true boudoir-style lingerie — very luxurious, feminine but not frilly.” One-piece guêpière, $260. Handmade choker with Swarovski crystals, $152, by Katzy Ann Designs. Three-strand faux pearl bracelet, $26.

Local lines: Leslie Joan jewelry (see “Low price point,” above) by Leslie Mezes; brushed sterling silver necklaces by Jewel Ya, created by Julia Winter of Phoenix.

She’s excited about: “More Jolidon!” Norman exclaims. “The fabric collections for fall are classic blacks, but also beautiful olives, purples and golds, ethnic textures, burnt reds with gold threads.” The new pieces will show up in stores in late September.

ammit

WHAT SAM WORE: 7/29/08

The shirt: Long-sleeved cotton button-up by J Crew (a birthday gift from my friends Doug & James in Denver)
The pants: Jeans by Mavi (Last Chance)
The shoes: Sneakers by Skechers (Last Chance)
The scent: Paco Rabanne Sport eau de toilette
Listening to: “Money Changes Everything” by Cyndi Lauper featuring Adam Lazzara