Well, “hates” is too strong a word, but the “Cosmetics Cop” and author of “Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me” is no fan of the claims companies like Bare Escentuals make about their “all mineral” cosmetics.

Now, when it comes to makeup and skin care, Begoun is a realist — sometimes to the point of being a Debbie Downer. (Whereas you might view a lavender scent as innocuous, she considers lavender essential oil a potential irritant.) Scroll through her product reviews and you might wonder if she actually likes anything. But she does — and her picks for the best in makeup and skincare of 2006 include brands found in drugstores and department stores alike.

But back to mineral makeup. Begoun’s take is that mineral makeup isn’t revolutionary — most every pressed powder on the market is already made of minerals.

And it’s not “all natural”: The standard ingredient in most mineral makeups is bismuth oxychloride, which is not found in nature; in fact, it’s created by mixing bismuth (a byproduct of lead and copper refining), chloride and water. Talc is actually more natural, Begoun says, and is used in some of the best products around, from L’Oreal to Chanel.

She will give the powders with high concentrations of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide credit for sunscreen and non-irritating nature, and says that mineral makeup often works well for those with rosacea because it provides enough coverage to camouflage redness.

However, she points out the powders tend to “grab” onto skin and can be difficult to blend; “the very nature of their ingredients results in a textured application that can look powdery and ‘made-up’ on the skin.” To get any SPF protection, liberal application of the product is essential, so a sheer application is useless in that regard. And any claims of antioxidant properties are “clever,” because they’re such a tiny part of the product and can’t remain stable in the packaging.

The final note: Begoun says if you use mineral makeup and love it, that’s great. But there are negative points and exaggerated claims, so don’t be surprised if the makeup doesn’t work like you expected, because it’s no better than most of the makeup out there.
sammit

WHAT SAM WORE: 12/31/07
The shirt: Long-sleeved cotton buttondown (Abercrombie & Fitch outlet, Washington, D.C., 2007)
The pants: Wide-wale cords (Banana Republic, circa 2001)
The shoes: Rockport loafers (Last Chance, 2007)

sammit

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